Northern Vietnam

From the three thousand limestone islands of Ha Long Bay to the sea of cloud over the Sa Pa terraces, the north is built on grey-green. The climate is not as decisive as the south: half the year the air is wet, and the far mountains always look like they are behind a gauze curtain.

The old quarter of Hanoi moves to a different rhythm. The lanes are narrow enough that two people must turn sideways to pass, and by six in the morning plastic stools are already out on the pavement for phở. If you only have two days, spend them walking rather than chasing sights.